Hanfu carries profound significance and symbolism, representing not only fashion but also social status, virtues, and cultural identity. Mochi Hanfu: I think above all I’m just trying to show how beautiful and rich Chinese fashion is. I think thanks to TikTok and the pandemic, there’s a lot more diversity within beauty and people are doing make-up that compliments their own features instead of trying to fit in with a certain look. She just has such an ethereal look to her and I aspire to have this type of makeup aesthetic. During the Instagram baddie era of 2014 to 2016, for example, everyone wanted to have those thick Anastasia Beverly Hills brows, the bronze eyes, the matte lips… Platforms such as Bilibili, Douyin, Instagram and others have contributed to its resurgence by allowing youth to showcase their dressing online. Clothes are the “foundation of culture,” said Jiang Xue, who is part of Beijing-based hanfu club Mowutianxia, which has received funding from the Communist Youth League.
Like a lot of bored people in lockdown, 23-year-old Chuyan Wang joined the hanfu revolution of young Chinese people dressing in traditional historical clothes that swept Douyin (Chinese TikTok). I know a lot of my POC friends wanted to fit in with white people and white culture so they would do make-up that didn’t necessarily compliment their features. I think a lot of people, myself included, don’t know a lot about all the different types of clothing throughout China’s five-thousand-year history and all the different types of make-up as well. Mochi Hanfu: Experimenting. I think a lot of us, especially in western culture, are so used to kind of a uniform look. What is your favourite look you’ve done? Mochi Hanfu: I think my favourite personal look so far is when I did a recreation of Yang Guifei. I just look so delicate and soft and it took me around four hours so I think I am attached to this look because I know how long it took. Mochi Hanfu: I think I relate to Kaguya from Studio Ghibli’s Princess Kaguya movie the most. Here, we speak to the artist about evolving from her Insta baddie to Tang dynasty consort era, identifying with Studio Ghibli’s Princess Kaguya, and the value of sharing her culture online.
“I feel like an imperial consort. “I feel like my ancestors when I wear hanfu,” she says, describing why she feels the most beautiful in a full face of historical make-up, hair heavy with the weight of jewellery that clinks with every step, or even just incorporated into her modern wardrobe through the rise of xinzhongshi (新中式/ “new chinese style”). Mochi Hanfu: Xinzhongshi (新中式/ “new chinese style”)! On the one hand, she is thrilled to connect the Asian and Chinese diaspora with visual representations of their cultural heritage. There are lots of different types of hanfu shirts out there, but one of the most popular is the Ru shan (Ru means a shirt, the top part of Ruqun). These included the garden where the Enlightened one was born (Lumbini, Nepal) (fig. 5), his father’s palace (Kapilavastu), where he lived as an adult (Jetavana), and the forest where he died (Kuśinagara). Outside of period dramas, the qipao has also been worn by celebrities and fashion icons on red carpets and at high-profile events. In the Tang dynasty, it was also popular for people to use fabrics, including brocade, to decorate the collars, sleeves and front of the yuanlingpao; this practice of clothing decoration is known as “partial decorations of gowns” and was influenced by the Sogdians of Central Asia, who had entered China since the Northern and Southern dynasties period.
In the Song dynasty, the fabric of official uniforms was mainly made of silk. Similarly to the Ming dynasty, the waistcoat xiapei was worn by the queens as a daily form of attire while the wives of senior official as a formal attire. She began sharing obsessively-researched explainers on niche aspects of Chinese aesthetics through the ages, which were delivered while recreating the looks on her face. During the later half, as longer styles of shirts with standing collars like Changshan 长衫 “Long Shirt” began to appear with the invention of metal buttons, the designs of the Mamian 马面 were reduced to floor-grazing decorative trims. 139-140), and square-collar long robe (方领对襟长袍) with half-sleeves. Now, a newly initiated young audience are choosing to incorporate key pieces into their everyday wardrobe, as seen in popular Douyin streetwear fashion edits. Li was inspired to buy Hanfu by an account dubbed Nanzhi999, which has 1.1 million followers on the Douyin short video social media platform. Chinese Cultural Revolution has found a fresh platform.
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